Opendata, web and dolomites

KEME

Knitting early modern Europe: materials, manufacture and meaning

Total Cost €

0

EC-Contrib. €

0

Partnership

0

Views

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 KEME project word cloud

Explore the words cloud of the KEME project. It provides you a very rough idea of what is the project "KEME" about.

fashions    pressing    identifiable    era    period    radiocarbon    locations    give    interdisciplinary    knitted    innovation    significance    delayed    demand    male    body    microscopic    examination    goods    century    valuable    sources    little    map    rank    paucity    accelerated    museum    men    database    scholars    believe    clear    forever    materials    despite    trade    created    collections    journal    pictorial    radiography    degradation    rigorous    contextualised    threatens    scientific    fibre    chart    status    theory    vulnerable    patterns    cultural    scholarly    identification    fashionable    marketplace    terminology    remarkable    media    hat    similarities    published    online    caps    disseminate    preliminary    contemporary    eloquent    documentary    tracks    manufacture    illustrate    accessible    indicators    dating    16th    craftspeople    pedagogues    diverse    workshops    data    deteriorating    unsatisfied    garments    modern    technological    my    typologies    fragile    silenced    voice    dye    practical    articles    functional    wear    extant    economic    worldwide    accessory    headwear    astonishing    indicative    knitting    social   

Project "KEME" data sheet

The following table provides information about the project.

Coordinator
KOBENHAVNS UNIVERSITET 

Organization address
address: NORREGADE 10
city: KOBENHAVN
postcode: 1165
website: www.ku.dk

contact info
title: n.a.
name: n.a.
surname: n.a.
function: n.a.
email: n.a.
telephone: n.a.
fax: n.a.

 Coordinator Country Denmark [DK]
 Project website http://ctr.hum.ku.dk/marie-sklodowska-curie-projects/knitting/
 Total cost 212˙194 €
 EC max contribution 212˙194 € (100%)
 Programme 1. H2020-EU.1.3.2. (Nurturing excellence by means of cross-border and cross-sector mobility)
 Code Call H2020-MSCA-IF-2014
 Funding Scheme MSCA-IF-EF-CAR
 Starting year 2015
 Duration (year-month-day) from 2015-08-01   to  2017-07-31

 Partnership

Take a look of project's partnership.

# participants  country  role  EC contrib. [€] 
1    KOBENHAVNS UNIVERSITET DK (KOBENHAVN) coordinator 212˙194.00

Map

 Project objective

The development of knitting was a key technological innovation for which there is little published scientific evidence. There are more than 100 knitted caps from the early modern era in museum collections worldwide - an astonishing number given the paucity of extant garments from the period. Despite their diverse locations, they have remarkable similarities in their materials and manufacture which illustrate trade in knitted caps as consumer goods in the emerging early modern European marketplace, demonstrate how knitting created new fashions for men indicative of rank and status, and facilitate theory on the cultural significance of the hat as an essential male accessory. My preliminary study of the caps tracks clear patterns in the data: five typologies are identifiable and when contextualised with pictorial and documentary sources, their cultural significance as functional and fashionable men’s wear is clear. I believe the caps’ potential as indicators of the development and growth of knitting technology is valuable yet vulnerable. The caps are fragile and deteriorating, a process accelerated by each viewing, for which there is pressing and unsatisfied demand. I propose immediate rigorous scientific study (radiocarbon dating, microscopic examination, x-radiography, fibre and dye identification, and degradation analysis) and interdisciplinary research into contemporary sources to chart an economic map of early knitting, to define terminology for further scholarly work, and to develop theory about men’s headwear in the 16th century. An online database will make the data accessible to scholars, museum pedagogues and craftspeople, who demand access to the caps. Journal articles, practical workshops and social media will disseminate my conclusions and my development of theory. I will give voice to an eloquent body of evidence about early modern knitting technology, which threatens to be silenced forever if scientific analysis is delayed.

 Publications

year authors and title journal last update
List of publications.
2016 Kruseman, G, Sturtewagen, I & Malcolm-Davies, J
“Erasmus’ muts”
published pages: 72-89, ISSN: 1382-211X, DOI:
Kostuum: Nederlandse Kostuumvereniging 2016 2019-06-13
2017 Marie-Louise Nosch
Tæt på Luthers hue
published pages: , ISSN: 0106-4142, DOI:
Weekendavisen, Ideer september 15 2019-06-13
2017 Malcolm-Davies, J
Silk’ Hats from a Sheep’s Back. In: Bravermanová, M, Březinová, H, & Malcolm-Davies, J (eds) Archaeological textiles - links between past and present, NESAT XIII. Liberec: Archaeolingua 34.
published pages: , ISSN: , DOI:
In: Bravermanová, M, Březinová, H, & Malcolm-Davies, J (eds) Archaeological textiles - links between past and present NESAT XIII. Liberec: Archaeolin 2019-06-13
2018 Malcolm-Davies, J, Gilbert, R & Lervad, S (2018 - forthcoming) in Archaeological Textiles Review,
Unravelling the confusions: Defining concepts to record accurately archaeological and historical evidence for knitting
published pages: , ISSN: 2245-7135, DOI:
Archaeological Textiles Review 60 2019-06-13
2017 Malcolm-Davies, J
“Handwerkgeheimen: Gebreide muts uit 16de-eeuws Dordrecht draagt bij aan internationaal onderzoek”
published pages: 25-27, ISSN: , DOI:
Culthure 2019-06-13
2017 Malcolm-Davies, J
Cutting edge technology: knitting in the early modern era“Cutting edge technology: knitting in the early modern era” in Tinley, L (ed), Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, and the Port, Proceedings of the 15th Biennial Symposium, Textile Society of America, Savannah, 19-23 October
published pages: , ISSN: , DOI:
in Tinley, L (ed), Crosscurrents: Land, Labor, and the Port, Proceedings of the 15th Biennial Symposium, Textile Society of America, Savannah, 19-23 October 2017 2019-06-13
2017 Malcolm-Davies, J
“Shedding light with science: the potential for 21st century studies of 16th century knitting”
published pages: , ISSN: 2515-0995, DOI:
Journal of Dress History 1 2019-06-13
2016 jane Malcolm-Davies
An Early Modern mystery: A pilot study of knitting, napping and capping
published pages: 57-74, ISSN: 2245-7135, DOI:
Archaeological Textiles Review 58 2019-06-13

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